Thursday, November 26, 2015

Cape Town Stopover

Cape Town!

We finally made it in to Cape Town!  We were greeted by the other boats and some Stormhoek champagne to cheers our arrival.  It was an absolutely gorgeous day when we came in.  As we arrived in port, the marina looked much like what I would imagine New Orleans to look like even though I've never been.  After the quick celebrations and info gathering, we were whisked away to immagration in a tourist bus so we could be cleared to leave the docks.  Again, we started another round of 'Eer-lie in the morning' on the way over announcing our arrival.  Once we were cleared, we were given the evening off to shower and meet for dinner.
The Waterfront as we came in
Celebrating our arrival into Cape Town

We made our way to a hotel for the night since the house that was booked was not available until the following night.  What a glorious treat having a hotel shower after not showering for 3 weeks!  So amazing!!  We made our way to the local scene on the waterfront to have some beverages and land food with the whole crew.  It was nice to relax for the night and not start the deep clean right away.  There were signs for karaoke, but by the time we left the restaurant it had shut down for the night...probably a good thing.

Our first dinner after our voyage

It was back to the boat for an early 8:30 start.  I went straight to the sail tent with Karri, Jesse, and Tiffany since we had a tight time schedule to keep in order to get our sails ready to send off to the loft by Monday morning.  Once in the sail tent, we camped out in the back and laid out code 2 to get a full assessment of the damage.  The kite was ripped completely from head to clew, the head had been ripped apart in two pieces, layers of the kite were coming apart, and there were tears in various places across the kite.  Martin, the sail god from Hyde Sails, gave us the low down of what we needed to do to get the kite ready to send off.  It seemed like an endless job, but we were ready to pull late nights to get it done in time.  For our task, we had to pin each section down individually and then piece the two panels back together with sail tape going down one side of the kite and then with a new layer of sail fabric and surrounding tape on the opposite side.  Once that is completed, we have to stitch the ends of the new fabric in place on both sides of the kite.  It took us an entire day just to get the tape and new fabric down.  Around 8 pm, the rest of our house crew came by to steal us away for a bite to eat at one of the local restaurants.  We were at a good stopping place, so called it quits for the night and went and enjoyed some local cuisine.

Working on the sails
My favorite tool, the hot knife!  Totally buying one of these when I get home!

Karri on the sewing machine


Karri added a nice note to our mothers...my mom will love this one!

What a freaking feast we had!  I somehow ended up at the table with the biggest eaters...maybe because I am one myself, but we ended up ordering a starter each, which consisted of oysters, salad, and a sampling of crocodile, ostrich, and some other kind of local wild meat carpaccio.  Then we got a shared seafood platter and a meat platter and another main course.  And, of course, we had some champagne to start, followed by the most amazing sauvignon blanc!  After that, we made it back to the house Tino had booked, where he, Patsy, Karri, Jan, Leo, and myself were sharing.  Such an awesome place and nice and spacious for us all to get some space from each other.

Cheers!
So much wine!
Raw meat appetizer 
Oysters!
Fresh veggies!

Seafood platter...
...nom, nom, nom!
Meat platter
We like to cuddle :)

The next day, was back to the sail tent for another earlier start so we could get all our repairs done in time.  While Karri worked on stitching the big rip, I worked with Martin on fixing the major damage on the clew and head.  It was a work of art in the end watching the head come back together!  I am still quite amazed at how Martin salvaged it.  Sunday also happened to be the prize giving ceremony, so we departed from our tasks for a quick break and headed over to the lookout on the other side of the waterfront which was hoisted by Stormhoek.  It was quite a nice little venue and my favorite part were the oyster men walking around with fresh oysters...seriously the best oysters I have ever had!  After the winners were announced, Karri and  I snuck back to the sail tent to finish our work but not before sneaking some hamburgers from the food trucks who were not scheduled to start serving food until later.  We pulled a late night, but we got a lot of work done.  Karri finished all the stitching on code 2 and I learned how to use the sewing beast fixing up the small repairs we had on code 3 from wrapping it around the forestay.  By around 3 am, we were done and finally able to go back and get some rest.  We missed out on the crew party but I think it was well worth it to get our work done and have more free time later in the week.

Sidenote, keep a lookout for the creepy guards that sneak up on you in the sail tent late at night, not saying a word and starring at you working...scared the shit out of Karri and I!

The venue
Jesse being Jesse
So excited for Oysters!
Back to work on the sails for the night

Monday morning, it was back to the sail tent to meet with the sail loft guys and get an estimate of repair costs.  After that, I finished my work on code 3 and had the afternoon off!  I made my way over to the massive mall that lives on the waterfront and bought my first pair of crocs!  A must needed investment for the boat.  By that time, most of the boat cleaning and maintenance was done as well, so Jan and Leo were free as well and we all decided to hit up Table Mountain.  After a quick stop at our place to drop off knick knacks, the five of us, Jesse, Karri, Jan, Leo, and myself took a cab up to the bottom of Table Mountain.  We decided to do the 3 hour hike since we never get to walk much on the boat.  It was an incredibly strenuous hike up to the top after not really having any cardio exercise for 2 months!  But Jan kept us going by enticing us with dried mango and Jesse was on his A game entertaining us the entire way up, referring to each of us as a boat from the Clipper fleet as we passed one another.  At one point, Karri and I couldn't go on because we were buckled over laughing so hard!  However, we finally made it to the top, even after Jesse was sure that he was "going to die today" and realized at the top that, "well I did not die."  If only I could play a recording of his strong Finnish accent to make it even better.  It was a great hike in the end with amazing views on top!  After our exhausting hike, we had a nice meal in and caught  up with loved ones from home.

Crocs!
Tabletop Mountain hike
LMAX in the lead!

Leo photo bombing per usual
View from the top

Karri and I


The next day, Karri and I had a day off and we were determined to find a spa to go to and get pampered!  After fruitless efforts of searching online, I finally just asked the house cleaners if they knew of a place and they told us the shopping areas a couple blocks from our house had one.  So we made our way over and got our appointments booked!  We walked through the shopping center and found an awesome store called Drifters that basically had everything we needed and didn't need but wanted for the boat, so we stocked up on some goodies, had some food, picked up some wine for our evening dinner and then went our separate ways for our spa treatments.  It was a great relaxing day!  That night, we were planning to have some of the crew over to eat but it ended up just being our house again, but Tino went all out and bought the mother load of all kinds of meats; chicken, steak, ostrich, squid, crayfish, and shrimp.  We had a smorgishborgue of food that night with good wine!  Karri and I were ready to enjoy the evening after our night off and joined Patsy at the DJ party all Clipper crew were invited to that night while the boys stayed home.  It was a great, fun, long evening!  Perhaps a bit too late for my next day's activities!

The next morning, Leo knocks on my door at around 7:15 maybe? asking if I was ready to go...it was SHARK DIVING DAY!  I quickly got dressed in about 5 minutes since we were scheduled to be picked up at 7:30, but the driver came early and I just had to throw stuff together quickly.  I actually managed to make it this time!  So Tino, Leo, and I set off on our epic journey!  Luckily, the diving spot is two and half hours away, so I got a good snooze in on the way over.  We had a quick stop to pick up some coffee and treats before making it to our final destination.  Once we arrived, we had some breakfast, a briefing, then waited another hour before finally making it on the boat.  I was very skeptical that we would actually get to see any sharks so I was happily surprised when one came up within minutes of us anchoring off!  I squealed with excitement and said I was ready to go in!  After another briefing, we were part of the first group to get in the cage thanks to my eagerness after seeing the first shark.  We put on wet suits, weight belts, and dive masks and made our way into the frigid water.  It wasn't long before a few sharks starting coming up!  So cool!  We got a few glimpses and then it was the next round of people.  With the second or third round, the lot inside the cage got a great experience with one of the sharks thrashing against the cage going after the bait!  I was full of squeals of excitement and fear that the people in the cage were going to get eaten alive!  But I still went back in for round 2 hoping to get a similar experience!  Although the view from on top of the boat is almost better than the cage at times if the water isn't clear enough.  Round 2 was even better and we had a few sharks nibbling at the bait in front of us...so an awesome experience!  

Sharks!!!
Such a good look



We be hot



After that I was freezing and ready to get back into my dry clothes, not to mention that Leo and Tino were in top form and I needed to quickly find the bathroom before peeing into my wetsuit from laughing so hard, which was strongly advised against from the dive instructors.  The boat heads were luxurious compared to our heads on the boat.  The toilets had electric flushes!  I was very confused how to use it at first because the sign just said to press the button which I did and nothing happened, but then I tried again holding it down and it actually worked like a normal toilet!  How amazing!  I was quite impressed...the little things in life!


After our dive, we met up with Karri and Jan in Camps Bay to enjoy the scenery and some drinks.  We then moved next door for dinner where Jesse and Ana met up with us after their wine tasting tour.  We enjoyed several bottles of wine and massive quantities of food per usual and then made our way back home.  Another amazing day in Cape Town complete!

Camps Bay

Thursday, Leo scheduled a wine tasting tour for our household to go on.  So at 7:30 sharp, these people are very punctual in Cape Town, our guide Marlene had shown up and was ready to whisk us away.  We opted for a half sight seeing/wine tasting tour, so we headed out to the Cape of Good Hope to see the penguins and the light house first.  Marlene was the best tour guide ever!  She fit in just perfectly with our lot!  She was the same tour guide that Ana and Jesse had the day before and nailed Jesse's accent...it was amazing!  On our way out, we passed by several beaches, one of which Marlene pointed out the shark spotter lookout.  There is a person who sits on top of the cliff and looks out for sharks!  They have different colored flags depending on the visibility they have, so if a black flag is flying that means they have poor visibility, etc.  So I found my new calling in life to be a shark spotter in Cape Town!  I would just need to get laser eye surgery first since my vision is currently lacking the required skills...minor detail.

Shark spotting flag, not clear today

We continued on our journey to see the penguins with Marlene continuing to entertain us along the way.  Penguins were cute and then it was back in the van to the lighthouse.  Once we got to the sign, Marlene made us run to the queue forming in front of the sign before the two big tourist buses unloaded who pulled up right before us.  However, the tourists didn't understand what a line was and just photo bombed everyone's picture instead.  So we have some lovely photos with random Dutch people in them.  Then we hiked up to the lighthouse to enjoy the views and take some photos and then it was down to lunch next to the lighthouse.  The food at the restaurant was surprisingly good for being in a tourist area.  The only awful part was that we were surrounded by flies who kept sticking to our drinks.  At least we were given plates to cover our wine glasses with!

Family photo on the way out
Penguin beach
Karri listening in to the school guide with the kids


So excited to learn about penguins!
Trying to crop out the Dutch folks
We love each other!
Views from the light house

Australia next!
Keeping the nats out of our drinks
London to Rio to the Netherlands eventually!
Because we can't get enough views of the sea

Did I fail to mention that we saw Baboons!
And they jumped on our car!


After lunch, it was time to start the wine tasting!  We made it to two different wineries, the first more modern and the second more rustic and definitely more preferable.  After wine tasting it was back to our place for some quick R&R and then back to the waterfront for one last dinner with the entire crew from Leg 2 and 3 before everyone parted their separate ways.

Cheers!

We love Marlene!

Tablecloth on Table Mountain




Friday was our last day before the start of Leg 3.  I still had plenty of laundry to do since our washers were preoccupied cleaning all the crew's foulies throughout the week.  We did laundry all morning and packed up for Leg 3.  Then it was back to the waterfront for our Leg 3 official briefing.  We managed to stop in the mall for a few last minute items as well, where I finally found a random Hallmark type store that had Halloween costumes!  By Halloween costumes, I mean they had one option, that being a butterfly for a five year old child.  Thank goodness for my small stature!  I was on a hunt all week in Cape Town for a costume since leg 3 started on Halloween, but came up with all dead ends.  So you can imagine my delight when I finally found this little gem last minute to celebrate one of my favorite holidays!  After our crew briefing, we had one last meal at our place to try and finish all the food and wine we had bought earlier in the week.  We had a nice relaxing evening and made our last minute personal calls before calling it a night.

Halloween!!!!  Saturday, we were due to be back on the boats by 0800 so we could catch the tourist bus back to immigration.  Once we were through immigration and had our official photos taken, I was free to put my costume on!  It just so happened that the green in the costume matched perfectly with our Visit Seattle gear!  I got lots of weird looks, but several people quite enjoyed the outfit!  I mean, I couldn't not get dressed up on Halloween!  I even got a complement on my outfit from Sir Robin Knox himself!  The day went by quickly and before we knew it, the race had started!  We all put our foulies on in preparation for a wet start similar to leg 2.  Luckily, my costume still fit over my foulies...best find ever!  After hitting a few markers around the area, it was off to Albany, or so we thought...

Waterfront Marina with the boats
Leg 3 Crew waiting for immigration bus
My butterfly costume for the day!
Bye, bye Cape Town...I'll be back!

Thursday, October 29, 2015

Leg 2 - Rio to Cape Town

Leg 2: Rio to Cape Town, October 7th - October 23rd, 2015

Well we are a week into Leg 2 already and this is the first time I have managed to write a blog.  Our watch system is a bit different in this leg causing us to be more "on watch" when we are on deck and we have little down time when we are off.  Or at least all I want to do is sleep during my off watch.  I have finally found some time to jot some things down...not sure what the heck is going on upstairs though...the boat is jostling all over the place!  Maybe we have finally crossed paths with this hurricane that was threatening to hit us up...

Visit Seattle in the lead!

Race start off from Rio was awesome!  We ended up in second place after take off!  Heading upwind, boat fully heeled over and getting doused in waves splashing over the bow, with all the boats behind us!  It was spectacular!  Too bad I was in crew kit instead of my racing gear because I was drenched by the end of it and my black cotton shorts are still drying a week later.  It was a rough couple of days at first with everyone getting sick right off the bat in the beating upwind conditions.  I was on mother duty already for the first day and we were having issues with our grey tank pump.  The grey tank is where all the water from the galley sink goes down.  Occasionally, or all the time rather, small bits of food slip through the drain and the grey water ends up smelling horribly.  So the result of a broken grey tank pump means the entire galley smells like death!  Add in this stench along with the upwind sailing and almost everyone was vomiting within minutes of coming down below deck.  I still have managed to keep a strong stomach during everything but that smell almost had me going.  Karri jumped in to help me in the galley since my mother parter was in bad shape and we very slowly made it through the day getting dinner ready for the boat.  Karri served up a delicious beef stew which no one ate since everyone was sick.  From now on, it will just be pasta and sauce in a jar for the first couple days of each leg, lesson learned.

After the start, we were quickly overtaken by the rest of the fleet and settled into the middle of the pack where we like it best.  We were happily sailing along for a few days when the tack line of Alexander (Code 2) got wrapped around the bow sprit, again!  All we could think is we can't break the bow sprit again!  We were going to drop the kite, but thought we might be able to jimmy the tack line off if we eased up some.  It luckily worked and we were back in action!  However, a few hours later, the halyard, holding up the head of the kite, blew and the kite went flying into the water!  This was in the middle of the night and it was pitch black with no moon or starts for light.  The only light we had was from the steaming light on the boat to make sure the spinnaker was flying okay.  We immediately centered the main but were not quick enough to heave the boat to, which resulted in the ultimate destruction to Alexander.  The boat sailed right over the kite and we were dragging it in the water as it was being pulled against the barnacled underside of the boat and the rudders.  It was all hands on deck trying to rescue the kite out of the water.  Once we finally managed to pull him on board, we saw that the entire kite had been ripped from head to clew, making the kite useless to us.  Not only was the kite ripped, but it was a jagged tear and extremely frayed.  There is no hope to repair this damage onboard so we will have to go on sailing without a code 2 and assess the damage once we get to Cape Town and can lay Alexander out to see the full extent.  The sail loft may be the only hope in saving Alexander at this point, which means serious deduction points for our team.

Poor Alexander :(

After that we flew the yankee for a bit but then switched over to Joan, Code 3.  It wasn't long before we trashed her as well.  The foot line, which creates tension in the foot of the sail, ripped out of the clew and up about halfway down the the foot of the sail.  We took her down to quickly start the repair on board.  During the stopover in Rio, I was added to the sail repair team, so Jesse, myself and a few others worked nonstop, two at a time during each watch, to repair the tear in the foot to prevent any future damage.  Jesse wanted the sail up by 0700, but the wind shifted and we have still yet to use her.  Let's hope our repair holds up though!

Jesse and I repairing the sail

The waves and wind have increased and we are getting a lot more fruity waters.  We haven't seen the sun more than five minutes a day, if that, since we left Rio and last night was the first night I have seen stars on this leg which only lasted a couple of hours.  This leg is a lot more gloomier, cloudy, and mostly wet!  It mists a lot throughout the day and various waves are constantly crashing over, meaning we are wet all the time on deck.  The wetness surprisingly isn't that bad since it isn't completely freezing yet.  The worst is at night, when it gets chillier and my hands are wet the entire time.  I have realized how much I hate having wet hands!  Last night was the first night I wore the fisherman's gloves that were recommended to buy and they sure worked well but I felt like the Michelin man with my mid layers under my jacket and puffy gloves or Randy from The Christmas Story for those familiar with the classic movie, "Ralphy, Ralphy! I can't get up!"  Good thing I have helpful crew mates who can help zipper me up!
...

We just completed the ocean sprint and so much has happened!  After my last post, we wrapped Joan (Code 3) around the inner forestay...that was all the ruckus I was hearing above when I was writing before.  The kite continued to be wrapped for over a day as we made numerous attempts to send people up the mast to untangle the massive twists.  Jesse came up with multiple ideas and each failed.  He finally concocted a wrap net out of sail ties to contain the balloon in the middle of the twists.  That seemed to help a bit and then they were able to untwist the kite from the bottom or so I think...the kite was magically unwrapped when I was on another mother duty.  I thought they were joking with me, but indeed they finally succeeded in getting the kite down!  There was talk of just tightly wrapping the rest of the kite around the forestay and sailing all the way to Cape Town like that.  We thought it would have made great pictures as we came up into view!  But we will probably make it much faster and safer now that it is down.

Beginning of the wrap...

We only lost 5 positions and are now in last place because of it (said in a sarcastic tone)....urgh!  Right before the wrap, we were neck and neck with Unicef, who we could actually see out on the water as we sped pass them.  Then the kite got wrapped and they came back into view and surged pass us.  Their kite actually collapsed as it passed us and I thought the both of us might be stranded for a bit with twisted kites.  It is crazy that you actually run into the other boats in the middle of the ocean during these races!

If you look closely, you can see Unicef on the horizon.

As for the ocean sprint, we were making good head way but because of our kite wrap, we were not in an ideal position to start the sprint since it left us with much more distance to cover.  We ended up sailing into a wind hole to help get the kite down.  As such, we had to average around 12.5 knots an hour to take the lead.  We were getting great results but the wind died down overnight so we decided to bail out and head in the best direction to get to Cape Town faster.  At this point, I'm just hoping LMAX, who started 5 days after everyone due to the beaching, doesn't overtake us...sidenote, did you see that our top performing boat was beached in Rio?  Like proper beached! Classic!


...

Only a few days left until we make it to Cape Town now!  The first boats are due to arrive sometime today and we are hoping to arrive on Friday.  So not our best race considering we are still currently in last place but we are slowly catching up to Unicef at a snail's pace.  We have bets going on when we will cross the finish line, winner gets a free drink from everyone...aka, winner will be smashed once we make it to the first bar in Cape Town after twenty free drinks of the buyer's choice...so I'm actually hoping not to win this one.  I'm going for a 10:23 finish time.

For the past two days we assessed and repaired the Code 3 that was wrapped around the forestay for over a day.  She surprisingly held up well with only a few minor weak spots which we were able to repair on the boat.  Karri even brought out the sewing machine for the first time to sew down the patches!  That thing is a beast!  As for the Code 2, which we ran over in the water, there isn't much we can do there in the boat, so looks like I'll be spending a lot of days in Cape Town doing sail repair if we are able to do any of the repairs ourselves...wah, wah, wah.

Today was the first day I was able to grab the Spanish flashcards Pablo made us.  In case I didn't mention this in the Leg 1 blogs, we had two Spanish gentlemen onboard who were casually teaching us some Spanish.  However, Pablo didn't think we were getting adequate lessons or phrases that would actually be useful to us, so he so kindly spent hours in Rio and made us some Spanish flashcards of useful words and phrases out of postcards!  Now I will be able to expand on the main two phrases I have learned from Amancio, "Estoy muy loca!" y "Que me mato con mi moto!"  Special thanks to Pablo for the cards!  That was so very, very thoughtful of you!  The goal by the end of the race is to be fluent in Spanish and, of course, my British accent!

So quick Leg 2 recap...
 - smashed it at race start coming in second over the start line!
 - lots of people sea sick and then other germs spreading like wildfire (I missed out, thank goodness!)
 - Code 2 head donut blows, run over kite and smash it, literally
 - Wrap code 3 for 32 hours, sail into wind hole to get her down and lose 150 miles
 - enjoy some time of non heeled boat living
 - drive through a storm with up to 69 knots of wind consistently in the 50s and get dumped on by floods of waves overboard
 - sail up to Cape Town with the most amazing sailing weather and gorgeous day!
 - drive through another wind hole as we are minutes from Cape Town, start deep clean as we wait, wind shifts...tack, tack, tack...huge mess below deck!
 - celebrations commence in Cape Town!

I'm already in love with this place!

lots of squid on deck this race...Amancio saved simwe for our paella

classic Leo photo bomb

me in my crazy fishermen gloves


living life at an angle...Steve


Jan, Amanda, and I

first glipsme of Cape Town!


this is how I get to bed...

...and then I always hit my head on the ceiling

dancing on the sails


let the celebrations commence!